Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Eight Ways St. John's Has Changed

Eight Ways St. John's has changed in the past 10 years or less:

1.       Need for Traffic Updates!  Except for a brief period of time in the mornings and evenings traffic did not slow. Ever. There was no such thing as traffic.  I scoffed at people who thought we had traffic.  Now, it helps to have Cecil Hare (CBC) and twitter feeds telling us which spots to avoid in the city.  Even middle of the morning: allot 20 minutes no matter where you are going!
2.       Ethnic Restaurants: now there are more of them!  There were always a handful of Chinese restaurants around, and India Gate is a fixture here, but you can get many other types of yummy Pakistani, Afghan, Asian and Middle Eastern now!
3.       People Walking Around the City.  I see people walking everywhere.  You didn’t see that as often years ago and it’s good that people are walking more.  All the city has to do now is make the place walkable – even in the winter.
4.       Lots of BMWs, Audis and Volkswagen.  This goes to show how much more money is in the city than there used to be – it makes me a little sad to know the Sunfire era is over.
5.       Good Talent and Entertainment: Let’s face it, St John’s has a hugely deep pool of local talent and b’ys it is fabulous!  But now there’s also talent coming from away to play, dance and act for us.
6.       The Big Box Stores/Businesses.  Seems like someone sets those “Big Box Store Seeds” overnight and with the right amount of rain, up she comes!  One morning I went to work past Robin Hood Bay Road and there were trees – when I came back that evening there was gravel and hundreds of gulls watching the new buildings begin to sprout.
7.       Continuing Urban Sprawl.  Can someone get a handle on this?  It just seems endless.  And now “Dannyland” is coming online too.  What’s happening to the old houses and subdivisions?  Is the entire bay relocating into the city?  Can we try to plan it a little better? Anyone wonder why the entire area by Quidi Vidi Lake is so underdeveloped (chicken factory, anyone)?
8.       A New Appreciation for this Fine City: It used to be that St. John’s was the place to go in NL when you had to move away from your town either to go to school or find work (if you didn’t leave to go to the Mainland).  But now it seems people have a growing appreciation for the food, culture and look of this small but sprawling, beautiful city on the edge of a continent.  Thank goodness for that.


Townie Versus Bayman

I love St. John’s.  There you have it.  I admit it.  Some people would call me a Townie, because I was born in St. John’s and lived there for twelve years, but then I moved out around the bay and lived there until I went to university.  In the meantime, I spent almost every summer of my life in the Bay and I come from good Bay Stock.  I also love the Bay.  Am I am a Bayman?  Nope.  But nor am I a Townie.  I am a hybrid of the two.  Which puts me in a unique position to love (and criticize) certain aspects of both.

First St. John’s – at least the heart of St. John’s – is one of the most colorful cities on earth.  Its rows of bright houses line a small but scenic harbour, with a castle-like tower looking out over it.  But the best of all is that it has a great heart.  From the crunchy artists and funky clothes stores hawking their wares, to the traditional music stores and pubs of George Street, this city is lovable.  So, if I were to spend a favorite day in St John’s it would be:

Wake up and head to Gracie Joe’s for breakfast – wander down Quidi Vidi Road and check out artists Alexis Templeton (for pottery), and Crafts of Character (for pewter).   Run up Signal Hill in honour of the (almost) half marathon Cape to Cabot which takes runners from Cape Spear to Cabot Tower.  Or simply walk.  Pass the Geocentre, which if you have time, has great information on the geology of the area, but if not, a lovely gift shop.  See the views from Signal Hill but then head down the trail to the Battery.  As a person who sometimes works offshore, seeing the Battery while on the ocean from the Narrows is certainly a feast for the eyes. 

Walk downtown and grab lunch at Oliver’s or the Rocket.  There are lots of great stores downtown: Outfitters if you love the outdoors, or just want to pretend you do.  Twisted Sisters Boutik for cute and classy clothes.  If it’s winter head up to Bannerman Park to skate the Loop!  (Hope you remembered your skates!)  And for dinner - ahh the choices.  Sure there's the high-end places like Raymond's, which has its charms, but maybe head to the Adelaide Oyster House for some loud, in your face flavorful over the top food - or head back towards Quidi Vidi Village to Mallard Cottage for ambiance that can't be beat.  Not to mention Basho or the Reluctant Chef.

As for rural Newfoundland (the Bay), the images of cliffs plunging into the ocean are real.  And they are spectacular.

How would I spend a day in the Bay?  Oh, there are so many Bays with so much character, this is a hard question to answer.  I can only give you MY favorite day in the Bay I am most accustomed to… Conception Bay North.  If it’s summer, there’s no better place to be.  Northern Bay Sands or Salmon Cove Sands are such beautiful beaches.  They have dark grey sand but it’s nice and soft and the smell of salt air is undiluted.  Depending on the time of year, you can find your own wild blueberries or raspberries to pick - but there is also a Strawberry U-Pick nearby (in Northern Bay) that is beautiful in its own right.  A great lunch can be had at the Crabby Cat Cafe, in Upper Island Cove near the ocean.  The Grumpy Goat Gallery is at the back of this Cafe and I dare you to find a nicer lunch in a nicer area.  If you do, tell me about it.  The colorful art lights the place up and the view is fantastic.  Some beautiful hiking awaits you in Bay Roberts if you follow Water Street down to Mad Rock.  Enjoy your hiking and finish your day by having toutons (fried bread) and other Newfoundland delights at the Mad Rock Cafe.

So I am neither a Townie nor a Bayman but I like them both. They both have their treasures and it's worthwhile finding them.


Mrs Emberley

Sometimes a Grandmother is not a Grandmother
Sometimes she is someone else.

I picture you in your kitchen
With your well-coiffed hair
And usually an apron on
Inquiring about our small childish days
Quite earnestly.

How nice it was
That you were always there.
Year after year
For us, and for others.

Life went on for me,
With children and busy-ness
And it becomes harder to revisit the people of our youth
But you are never really forgotten
Just out of the limelight.

Not a time went by
When I drove past your place on the Harbour Road
That I did not think of you.
I think of you now.
I think of the people you touched in your long life.

I think how our experiences form us.
And so you, in your way,
Had to have had some part in
My becoming me.

I am grateful for that.  I am grateful to you.
Rest in peace, dear lady.

Welcome

Hi there, I've tried this before but with no real luck... I want to try to use this space to post some of my musings.  I've always liked to write but it's generally been for myself or close friends.  Let me know what you think.  Or not.  :)